Homme Lace
17th Century portrait of King Louis XIV of France wearing one of his signature lace neck pieces.
From the lace inserts of petticoats to collars, and detailing on shirts, lace has been a traditional fabrication of European origin that found global popularity, but has largely been overlooked in menswear today.
This got me thinking: what would make lace appealing for the man of today? In selecting lace for modern looks there are few points to consider:
1. Durability – I'm going to want to wear these garments often. Don’t you hate wearing something that you have to be self conscious about? It’s almost as if why bother wearing it if you need to be walking on eggshells just to get from point A to B.
2. Having a more graphic appeal - Whether it means newer geometric designs or a more modern take on a traditional floral structure. A lace for modern appeal should be something that goes beyond what is traditionally considered. This isn't your grandma’s tea cozy type of lace!
These two considerations also foster greater versatility – modern lace should be something that designer and avant-garde dresser Marc Jacobs would be proud to wear and quite possibly something rapper A$AP Rocky would be down to sport. It should be something that a gentleman of today could rock in a stylish and modern way that's not too delicate for daily life. I decided to take a journey into “Homme Lace” by exploring how a design with lace could feel masculine and offer some of the different ways I imagine applying it into my designs.
Marc Jacobs
sporting a chantilly lace dress.
A$AP Rocky
wearing a lace button-down shirt.
But first, let’s talk about history. Lace has been a part of apparel design and adornment for centuries, worn by women and men alike! It’s interesting to note how popular it had been with the likes of 17th-century French court in men’s fashion, while today you probably wouldn’t find the average guy bragging about the number of lace ruffles his shirt has. Why did lace fall out of favor for men’s clothing? I can imagine personal taste had something to do with it, but it may be more so due to practicality. Traditional lace - handmade with natural fibers – is unbelievably labor-intensive and can be pretty fragile, ripping easily if you are not careful. Those elements are amazing and worthy of appreciation, but not many guys (myself included) like to worry about how fragile traditional lace is. So, what are we to do?
Luckily, technology has changed that, and our expectations of what lace can be should change too! Two key advancements have happened in the last seventy years: synthetic fibers and machine production. The use of synthetic fibers results in a more durable product across the board and the more robust networks of lace made by machines are much more robust than would have been possible with handmade methods. Together these have revolutionized lace right under our noses, and I honestly believe our design sensibilities need to catch up! On my weekly fabric adventures, I have gathered a few options that can inspire a fantastic ensemble fit for any gentleman that has a longing to get in touch with his “lacey side”.
Whimsical Patch Work Lace
I realize this lace is perhaps all over the place, but it offers a wide range of visual impact while remaining not too feminine. It reminds me of artwork attributed to M. C. (Maurits Cornelis) Escher that interconnects in almost a mathematical way. This could make a great t-shirt, mixed-media blazer, or even just the sleeves and pocket of a button-down shirt. Made from polyester fibers, this lace is durable and can stand being machine washed if need be. No worries about eating lunch while wearing clothing made in this lace!
Linear Geometric Lace
With the use of line work in the lace design, this lace offers a more linear focus as it moves the eye forward. I could imagine an entire suit made of this. Lined (of course), with bound seam allowances in black silk habotai. For an interesting pop, the lining and seam bindings could add an interesting pop of color like blue or green. I can see a blazer for summer made in this lace, paired with a basic white t-shirt. Amazing!
Hexagon Triangle Lace
This is a nice and sturdy number. It has a great deal of coverage and can be quite interesting as a front panel of a t-shirt combo with a heavy jersey back and rib trim for the neckline. I would make the t-shirt oversized to give the option of layering underneath.
Stainglass Grid Lace
This lace reminded me of the windows of a church. This option is slightly lighter weight and could possibly be ideal to make a breezy short-sleeve button-down shirt or an entire t-shirt. It’s so hot these days that a breathable garment is a plus.
Scattered Star Lace
This has to be my favorite lace so far! I recently came across this lace at Mood Fabrics. It’s 100% polyester and the big and small star pattern through out it creates a bit of whimsical fun! I have actually been working on ideas for this lace. I’m thinking a basketball jersey top with matching shorts. Over-sized, of course. This lace even has an interesting irregular starry scallop edge that can add more interest to my design by placing the hem of my garment pattern there. I’m feeling inspired! Stay tune to what I dream up!